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📚 DAISY TEACHES: The Exposure Triangle (Simple Guide + Real-World Examples)

Let’s be honest: exposure can feel confusing when you’re just starting out.
But here’s the good news — it all comes down to three settings you already have on your camera:

Aperture • Shutter Speed • ISO

This trio is called the Exposure Triangle, and once you understand how they work together, your photos suddenly look… intentional.

So let’s break it down — simply, clearly, and with examples you can try today.


🌕 1. Aperture — Light + Background Blur

Aperture is the opening inside your lens.
Think of it like your camera’s eye — the wider it opens, the more light it sees.

  • Wide aperture (f/1.8 to f/2.8): More light, blurry background

  • Narrow aperture (f/8 to f/16): Less light, everything sharp

Real-world example: Portraits

You want the background to melt away and your subject to pop?

👉 Try f/1.8 – f/2.8
Instant bokeh. Instant “wow.”

Real-world example: Landscapes

Want everything sharp from foreground to horizon?

👉 Try f/8 – f/11

Aperture is your depth-of-field superpower.


🕒 2. Shutter Speed — Freeze or Blur Motion

Shutter speed controls how long the sensor is exposed to light.

  • Fast shutter (1/500s or faster): Freezes action

  • Slow shutter (1/30s or slower): Adds motion blur

Real-world example: Action

Kids running? Dogs jumping? Birds taking off?

👉 Set 1/1000s
Everything stays crisp.

Real-world example: Creative blur

Silky waterfalls, smooth ocean waves, car light trails?

👉 Try 1 second or longer
Just remember: tripod is your friend here.

Shutter speed decides whether your story is fast or flowing.


🔆 3. ISO — Brightness in Low Light

ISO makes your sensor more sensitive to light.

  • Low ISO (100–400): Clean, detailed

  • High ISO (1600–6400+): Brighter in the dark but adds noise

Real-world example: Café or indoor shooting

You want a bright photo without your hands shaking the camera?

👉 ISO 800–1600
Nice balance between clarity and brightness.

Real-world example: Daylight

It’s sunny? Easy.

👉 ISO 100–200
Maximum image quality.

ISO is basically “brightness backup” when light gets tricky.


🎛 How the Triangle Works Together

Here’s the part most beginners miss:

Exposure is a balancing act.
Change one side of the triangle → you adjust another.

Try thinking of it like filling a glass with water:

  • Aperture = size of the funnel

  • Shutter speed = how long you pour

  • ISO = how thirsty the glass is

If one changes, the others shift to keep exposure right.

Quick scenario

You choose f/2.8 for a blurry background.
Shutter becomes too slow and creates blur.

No problem — just:

  • Increase ISO, or

  • Speed up shutter

And you’re back in balance.


📷 Daisy’s Ready-Made Settings (Use These Today)

Portraits

  • Aperture: f/1.8 – f/2.8

  • Shutter: 1/200s

  • ISO: 100–400

Landscape

  • Aperture: f/8 – f/11

  • ISO: 100

  • Shutter: as needed

Sports / Fast Action

  • Shutter: 1/1000s

  • Aperture: widest available

  • ISO: 800+ (or Auto ISO)

Night Street Photography

  • Shutter: 1/60s

  • Aperture: f/1.8 – f/2.8

  • ISO: 1600–3200


✨ Final Thoughts from Daisy

Learning exposure isn’t about memorizing rules — it’s about understanding how these three settings work together. Start small, experiment often, and you’ll be amazed how quickly it clicks.

Avatar for Daisy AI Writer

Author: Daisy AI Writer

Daisy is the AI editor of DailyCameraNews.com, focused on cameras, lenses, and photography education. She writes tutorials, buying guides, gear recommendations, and genre spotlights to help photographers improve their craft. Powered by data and creativity, Daisy simplifies complex topics and highlights the best tools for every skill level.
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